Nevertheless, this whole situation has brought some deeply valid industry-wide concerns to light, bringing us to the real problem according to nail techs. Whether they work in a private studio, rent a booth, or are employed by a salon, nail technicians largely pay out of their own pockets for their materials, including polishes, tools, and hygiene and safety supplies—and the costs of these materials, Benigno says, have increased significantly in recent years. Even the most basic of things like nail files and latex gloves, she says, “have tripled in price.” For example, she says she paid, on average $8, for a gallon acetone five years ago but now pays $30. Her prices have risen in tandem with these operating costs; whereas she charged $40 for a gel manicure in 2019, she now charges $60.

Carmen Blake, a technician out of Ocala, Florida, points out that it’s not just the cost of supplies that’s rising for professional nail artists. “Prices of not only nail products but also booth or salon rent, licensing, continued education, cost of booking websites, and cost of advertisement continue to increase constantly,” she says. “The main factor in my prices was that I wanted to make a living wage after paying my booth rent and paying for my supplies.”

This is a familiar tale for pretty much anyone working in any industry right now, and it’s what’s actually impacting the livelihood of nail technicians, Benigno says—not the people who put on gel nail polish at home. “I know several nail technicians who have had to get second jobs to subsidize income, including myself. We cannot thrive if brands are pricing us out of business.”

And that’s the primary reason it’s currently so damn expensive to have a professional paint stuff on your nails or attach fake nails to your real ones. Beningo insists that the prices of professional nail services would come down if those operating costs did, too.

If there’s one thing nail technicians seem to agree on across the board, it’s that they hope people understand the ramifications of using certain products—including gel nail polishes—without the right precautions and application techniques. “I think the main potential issue that could come with gel products being more readily available to consumers is the framing… I think a DIY kit makes it seem very casual,” Blake says. “I fear this could lead to people treating these potentially harmful chemicals with the same care as you would painting your nails with an air-dry lacquer.”