Our relationship with our skin is emotional – whether we’re embracing the skin we’re in, spots and all, or coming to terms with no longer having the same toddler-plump cheeks we had as teenagers. But our skin is also a visible barometer for how we’re feeling, so taking a 360° holistic approach to our skincare and mental wellbeing – rather than treating stress, spots, and angry patches of redness as isolated concerns – is increasingly seen as one of the most impactful ways to restore our zen and dewy complexions.

ALL TOGETHER NOW
Currently, the link between the skin and brain (otherwise known as the skin-brain axis) is an exciting subject of conversation in beauty circles. Not only is your brain physically formed from the same layer of cells as your skin, but “your skin is involved in direct, continuous communication with your brain and central nervous system”, says plastic and reconstructive surgeon Dr Ashwin Soni (www.thesoniclinic.com), which suggests all three are interconnected.

If that sounds complicated, it’s because it is. What happens behind the scenes goes a little like this: “A variety of receptors send signals from the brain to the skin, and vice versa,” says Dr Soni. “This means that the skin can influence – and be influenced – by inflammation within the nervous system, emotional stress and an imbalance in the microbiome [the bacteria, fungi and viruses that naturally live in and on our bodies].”

So it’s no coincidence that your skin often looks embattled when you’re anxious and a work deadline looms. “Your skin responds to psychological stress in the same way the brain does,” says Dr Alia Ahmed, a consultant dermatologist with a special interest in psychodermatology (thepsychodermatologist.com). “When we experience emotional distress, the brain activates a stress pathway that releases cortisol and other chemicals, which can weaken the skin’s immune defences, delay healing, disrupt the barrier and increase inflammation. Cortisol also affects collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid – the building blocks that keep skin firm, elastic and hydrated.” Cue dehydrated skin, spots, dullness, premature ageing and conditions such as rosacea and psoriasis.

HAPPY SKIN
No wonder skincare that borrows from neuroscience and taps into the connection between skin health and emotional wellness is now having a moment in the spotlight. “These topicals can alter our mood, bring down stress-related responses, and improve balance in the skin-brain axis,” Dr Soni notes. Your first port of call may be specific peptides and adaptogens – botanical extracts that help your body adapt to physical, mental and environmental stress – as these are thought to “mimic the action of certain skin-brain receptors”, Dr Soni adds. Take for instance Perricone MD’s Neuropeptide Eyelid Lift Serum (Dhs 263, Makeup AE), which is powered by neuropeptides. These help to intercept the nerve signals that cause facial muscles to contract, softening the look of wrinkles. Meanwhile, The Harmonie Serum by Neuraé (Dhs640, Harrods), a brand developed by the Sisley Group and backed by 10 years of clinical research, harnesses adaptogens, including skullcap, a mild relaxant, and red indigo, to limit cortisol production in the skin.

A mood-boosting scent, scientifically proven to soothe jangly nerves, is a key consideration, too. In the case of The Harmonie Serum, this is the centring woody note of Palo Santo. Then there’s the gently uplifting, floral-smelling HappyFeelBoost complex at the heart of Loya’s Silky Soft Plumping Cream (Dhs 900, Harrods).

It’s not just about the roster of ingredients, though; how your skincare is applied to create a moment of reset and emotional balance is equally important. This is the premise behind Dermalogica’s Neurotouch Symmetry Serum (Dhs635, Sephora), where the power of adaptogens and skin-firming peptides is boosted by a sculpting technique. And Shiseido’s Vital Perfection Uplifting and Firming Advanced Day Cream SPF30 (Dhs 529, Sephora), which is said to act on nerve cells that detect stimuli such as touch, sending a signal to the skin to boost collagen production.

“Touch is part of a language that the body innately understands,” echoes celebrity facialist Anastasia Achilleos, adding that your body generates emotions in response that take you back to when you first felt loved as a child. “Sensory touch is the act that induces self-love, and that’s where we’re really headed when it comes to having a deeper, more meaningful and transportive experience every day with our rituals.” Not to mention, massage is proven to release feel-good chemicals like dopamine, endorphins and oxytocin.

Research into how much of an effect skincare can have on neural pathways is still in its infancy, and more clinical studies involving neuroscientists and psychologists are needed, says Dr Soni. It’s worth remembering, too, that no cosmetic product will (or should) directly affect brain chemistry. But it’s this idea of creating an emotional shift through a therapeutic skincare “ritual” that perhaps resonates most deeply. For Dr Ahmed, this means incorporating relaxation therapies such as mindfulness and diaphragmatic breathing – a technique whereby slow, deep breaths through the nose fully expand the lungs, lower heart rate and switch off the body’s “fight or flight” stress response. She says, “Because the brain and skin speak the same biochemical language, treating them together is essential – something I see reflected in my patients’ improved skin and improved state of mind.”

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