Fashion

Lorenzo Serafini, in his SS27 collection for Alberta Ferretti presented at Milan Fashion Week, championed the use of colour, a point he has always acknowledged as not coming easily to his design style. The range presented was based on lightness, fluidity and a carefree, warm colour scheme, and the reference points felt artistic, as the collection was inspired by the imagery from the 1920s associated with Léon Bakst, and George Balanchine established the atmosphere, resulting in a line of clothes that focused on freedom of movement rather than strict tailoring. This concept was most evident in slip dresses and in fluid trousers decorated with feathering from the knee downward, a gentle and a dramatic effect without making the overall shape heavy.

Serafini added floral patterns to balloon-style trousers, obi-style belts, and kimono jackets—tie-dye designs appeared on scarves and the trousers, adding layers of colours and texture to a collection clearly meant to look as if it had been worn rather than kept as something precious. The way the clothes were styled reflected that same easy spirit. When the models went through the brands’ Milan head office located in Via Donizetti 48, Milan, they wore flat shoes and moved about with the loose, carefree ease one has when walking on a beach rather than making a strut down the runway—a decision which reduced the formal character of the event and enabled the garments to speak for themselves. The fabrics favoured fluidity over structure, with fine, flowing materials taking over so the fringe, feathers, and prints could move in their natural state.

Serafini has developed his own vocabulary within the feminine and romantic codes already established at Alberta Ferretti, and this collection represents his most confident move so far. It is not mainly about demonstrating that he understands the brand’s identity but rather about allowing a truly new idea and a new colour to take the lead.

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