Image source: Depositphotos.com

Growing strawberries from seeds can be a fun and rewarding project, but it does come with certain challenges and considerations. Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to extract seeds from store-bought strawberries, plant them, grow them, and understand the best practices and potential issues.

Extracting Strawberry Seeds

Strawberry seeds can be extracted by putting them in a blender with water, note you don’t need too many! (Image source: Depositphotos.com)

1. Select Ripe Strawberries:
   • Choose fully ripe strawberries from the store. The riper the fruit, the more mature the seeds will be.
2. Remove Seeds:
   • Method 1: Use a toothpick or the tip of a knife to gently scrape off the seeds from the surface of the strawberry.
   • Method 2: Blend the strawberries with water in a blender for a few seconds. The seeds will separate from the pulp. Pour the mixture into a fine sieve or cheesecloth to catch the seeds and rinse them under running water.
3. Dry the Seeds:
   • Spread the seeds on a paper towel or a clean plate and let them dry in a cool, dark place for a few days. Ensure they are completely dry to prevent mold or mildew.

Note: Many strawberry varieties (but mot all) have improved germination rates if the seeds experience a period of cold stratification, a process used to break seed dormancy by exposing seeds to cold and moist conditions, typically in a refrigerator, to simulates the natural winter conditions that some seeds require before they can germinate.

For better germination, place dried seeds in a labeled, airtight bag or container in the refrigerator for 2–4 weeks. After this chilling period, sow them as described. Try this method if germination rates are low, it’s worth experimenting to see what happens!

Planting Strawberry Seeds

Potted strawberry seedlings (Image source: Depositphotos.com)

1. Best Season to Plant:
   • The best time to start strawberry seeds is in late winter to early spring, about 8-10 weeks before the last expected frost. This gives the seedlings enough time to establish before being transplanted outdoors.
2. Prepare the Soil:
   • Use a well-draining seed-starting mix or a fine, premium-grade potting mix. If using regular potting mix, sift out larger particles with a small garden sieve, as coarse pieces can hinder seedling emergence. Fill seed trays or small pots with the mix, leaving about 1 cm (1/2 inch) of space below the rim
3. Sow the Seeds:
   • Sprinkle the strawberry seeds evenly over the surface of the soil. Lightly press them into the soil but do not cover them, as strawberry seeds need light to germinate.
4. Watering:
   • Mist the soil with water using a spray bottle to keep it moist but not waterlogged. Cover the trays or pots with plastic wrap or a clear plastic lid to create a mini greenhouse effect, retaining moisture and warmth.
5. Germination:
   • Place the trays or pots in a bright location but out of direct sunlight. Strawberry seeds can take 2-3 weeks to germinate, and they require temperatures between 15-24°C (60-75°F). Some store-bought strawberries may have lower germination rates because they were harvested early or treated for transport. Don’t be discouraged if germination is spotty.
6. Transplanting:
   • Once the seedlings have developed their second set of true leaves (leaves that look like those of the parent plant, and not the first pair of seedling leaves), they can be transplanted into individual pots or outdoors if the danger of frost has passed.
   • Gradual Acclimation: It’s important to “harden off” seedlings before moving them outdoors. When outdoor temperatures are consistently above 10°C (50°F), gradually expose seedlings in their pots to the outdoor temperatures and more direct sunlight over a week or two, increasing their time outside each day to prevent transplant shock before plating them outside. If overnight temperatures are to cold, remember to bring them inside.

Considerations and Issues When Growing Strawberries from Seed

Alpine strawberry plant, Fragaria vesca, also known as woodland strawberry or European wood strawberry, produces small strawberries that are held off the ground, away from pests, and grow well from seed to produce the same plants (Image source: Depositphotos.com)

1. Time to Fruit:
   • Strawberries grown from seed typically take longer to fruit than those propagated by runners or purchased as transplants. While some seed-grown varieties may yield a few berries in their first season—especially day-neutral or everbearing types—most will not provide a substantial harvest until their second year. This delay is due to the time needed for strong root systems and sufficient leaf mass to support fruit production. In cooler climates or late starts, flowering may be delayed until the next spring or summer. Gardeners should view seed-grown strawberries as a long-term investment compared to runner-propagated plants.
2. Genetic Variability:
   • Strawberries grown from seed can show significant genetic variation, especially from open-pollinated varieties. Since they are usually propagated vegetatively via runners, seed propagation introduces genetic recombination, leading to offspring that may differ from the parent plant in traits such as size, sweetness, flavor, color, and yield.
   • Seeds from F1 hybrids—first-generation crosses—will not grow true to type. Offspring from F1 hybrids tend to show a mix of traits, often resulting in reduced vigor or less uniform fruit quality. For gardeners seeking consistency, this variability is a drawback. However, those interested in plant breeding can discover unique new varieties through selection over generations. To put this more simply, Seed-grown plants from F1 hybrid strawberries will likely yield smaller or less uniform fruit. If consistency is your main goal, consider known cultivars or runner-propagated plants.
   • Note: Alpine strawberries (Fragaria vesca), also known as wild strawberries or woodland strawberries, which are smaller and typically grown from seed, tend to be more genetically stable and often produce consistent fruit characteristics from generation to generation. They are an excellent choice for gardeners who want reliable results from seed-grown plants, particularly in smaller gardens or containers.
3. Space and Management:
   • Strawberry seedlings should be spaced approximately 25–30 cm (10–12 inches) apart in all directions. This allows enough room for each plant to develop a healthy crown and send out runners, while still ensuring good air circulation to reduce the risk of fungal diseases such as powdery mildew and botrytis (gray mold). In small garden beds or containers, plants can be arranged in a grid rather than rows to maximize space. Be sure to thin out weak seedlings and remove overcrowded runners to maintain airflow and prevent competition for nutrients and light.
4. Pest and Disease Management:
   • Strawberries are prone to a variety of pests and diseases. Common insect pests include aphids, slugs, spider mites, thrips, and root weevils. Fungal diseases such as botrytis fruit rot (gray mold), powdery mildew, and verticillium wilt are also prevalent, particularly in damp or crowded conditions.
   • Preventative measures include crop rotation, use of disease-resistant varieties, good sanitation practices, and regular inspection. Organic controls like neem oil, insecticidal soap, or copper-based fungicides can be effective if applied appropriately. Physical barriers such as straw mulch to keep strawberries off the soil surface, or netting can also deter pests and protect ripening fruit from birds and slugs.

Productive Lifespan and Replacement of Strawberries

Strawberry plants typically produce their best harvests for about 2–3 years. After this period, the plants become less vigorous, partly due to accumulated diseases in the soil and natural aging of the crown. As a result, gardeners often replace or renew their strawberry beds by either purchasing fresh plants or propagating healthy runners from more productive, younger specimens. Alpine strawberries (Fragaria vesca) also experience a gradual decline in yield, but they may continue producing smaller harvests slightly longer than commercial garden varieties. Recognizing this natural decrease helps prevent disappointment—declining yields after a couple of seasons are normal and not necessarily a result of poor care.

While growing strawberries from seeds can be more time-intensive and uncertain compared to purchasing established plants or using runner propagation, it is a rewarding way to experiment with new varieties and experience the full plant life cycle. By following the steps above—along with cold stratification for some types—and monitoring for pests and diseases, you can successfully grow strawberries from store-bought seeds. For quicker and more predictable results, consider buying certified disease-free runners or seedlings from a reputable nursery.

References

• Growing strawberries in the home garden. University of Minnesota. UMN Extension. https://extension.umn.edu/fruit/growing-strawberries-home-garden
• Kluepfel, M. (2025, February 5). Growing Strawberries | Home & Garden Information Center. Home & Garden Information Center. https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/growing-strawberries/
• Growing strawberries. Pennsylvania State University. PennState Extension. https://extension.psu.edu/growing-strawberries
• Strik, B. (2025, January 31). Growing strawberries in your home garden. Oregon State University. OSU Extension Service. https://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/pub/ec-1307-growing-strawberries-your-home-garden
• Growing strawberries in a home garden. University of Maryland Extension. https://extension.umd.edu/resource/growing-strawberries-home-garden/